[ The Dissidents - 04 ]
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I'm writing you this letter from a distant land. 我在一个遥远的地方给你写这封信
Its name is Siberia. 这个地方叫西伯利亚
For most of us, that name suggests nothing but a frozen devil's island - 对我们大多数人来说 这个名字仅仅意味着一个冰冷的恶魔之岛
and for the czarist general Andreyevich, it was the biggest vacant lot in the world. 而对于沙皇党人安德列耶维奇将军而言 它是世界上最大的一块荒地
Fortunately, there are more things on heaven and earth than any general... Siberian or not, has ever dreamed of. 幸运的是 这片天地间的事物要远超 任何将军——无论是否是西伯利亚人——的想象
As I write, I let my eye stray along the edge of a grove of birch trees, 当我写作时 我的视线在某片白桦树林的边缘游走
and I remember that in Russian, their name is a word of love: beryozca. 我记得在俄语中 它们的名字和“爱”是同根词——берёзовый
This might be autumn in Yorkshire or Connecticut... 这里和约克郡或康涅狄格州的秋天几乎一样
if it weren't for these telegraph workers, booted like Michael Strogoff, 除了这些电报工人 他们像被驱逐的米歇尔·斯特罗戈夫一样 （《米歇尔·斯特罗戈夫》是儒勒·凡尔纳于1876年创作的一部小说）
going through the motions of shoemakers at the altitude of tightrope walkers. 在走钢丝者的高度上做着鞋匠的工作
they convince you that you're looking at Siberia, 他们的存在让你相信 你所看到的地方是西伯利亚
and it's not just the local color: the boots, the fur caps... 这不仅仅因为当地的颜色：他们的靴子 毛帽
and the peppermint collars around their horses' necks. 以及他们的马脖子上围着的薄荷项圈
It's the realization, for example, that if one of these 而且还因为这样一种认识：
climbing Cossacks absentmindedly reeled in his line 比方说 如果这些 爬在杆上的哥萨克人漫不经心地卷起他手中的线
he'd find himself holding a ball of wire 4800 miles long. 他就会发现自己拿着 4800 英里长的电线
This gash in the forest means the city has gone by like a wild animal; 森林中的裂缝意味着城市像野兽一样经过
follow the wrong trail and you may come to a bear or a tiger, 走错路的话 你可能会遇到一头熊 或者老虎
follow the right one and you'll come to a city. 走对路你就会来到城市
Angarsk, 180 miles from the railroad. 安加尔斯克 距离铁路 180 英里
The city was planned in 1947, 该城市是在 1947 年规划建设的
but it took four years to cut a path through the forest, 但花了四年时间才从森林中一码一码地开拓出一条道
yard by yard, to reach the Trans-Siberian. 连接到西伯利亚大铁路
The foundation stone was laid in 1951. 城市的基石铺设于 1951 年
Today it has 100,000 inhabitants, 如今这座城市住着 10 万居民
including the 35,000 children born during construction, 包括在施工期间出生的 35000 名儿童
natives of the city which didn't yet exist. 这座城市没有原住民
When you've left the last house behind you though, 不过 当最后一座房子也被你甩在身后时
you're back in the Stone Age forest: the taiga. 你就又回到石器时代的森林——泰加林
I'm writing you this letter from the edge of the world. 我在世界的边缘为你写这封信
According to a Siberian proverb, the forest was made by the devil. 根据西伯利亚的一句谚语 森林是由魔鬼创造的
The devil did a good job; 那么魔鬼干得不错
his forest is as big as the United States of America. 他的森林和美利坚的国土一样大
But maybe the devil made the United States too. 那可能美国也是魔鬼创造的吧
When he's not busy making forests or states,the devil steals peoples' souls 当魔鬼不忙于创造森林或者国家时 他会偷走人的灵魂
or at least that was how the Siberians regarded death for many centuries. 至少在许多个世纪里 这就是西伯利亚人看待死亡的方式
In this frozen ground, corpses never rot. 在这片冻土上 尸体永远不会腐烂
In these graves, which rest on foundations of ice, 在这些以冰层为地基的坟墓里
life and death are separated by nothing more substantial than a breath of air. 生与死之间只是隔着一口气而已
Bring back the breath and the body is ready to live again, 只要恢复呼吸 身体就能重新活过来
to come back and share in the slow chilly existence of the wooden villages, 回来与大伙共享木制村落中缓慢又寒冷的生活
rounding up stray horses, building snowplows... 圈养马匹 制造雪橇
or leading herds on their pilgrimage to milder pastures. 或者领着畜群去更温和的牧场朝圣
This morning I saw a kolkhoz of ducks. 今早上我看到了一群像集体农庄那样聚集的鸭子 （kolkhoz 是苏联集体农庄的一种形式）
The duck is collectivistic by nature. 鸭子拥有集体主义的天性
There are no kulaks among ducks. 在它们当中没有富农阶级 （Kulak是用来描述拥有超过8英亩土地的富农）
It was a cold morning, and out of sympathy for the cameraman, 这是一个寒冷的早晨 出于对摄影师的同情
and to promote friendship between peoples, 以及增进不同国人之间友谊的需要
they gladly gave an exhibition of naval maneuvers on the freezing water, 它们高兴地向我们展示了海军在冰冷水面上的演习
at the risk of being trapped in the ice. 为此不惜冒着被困在冰层中的风险
Which was the sad fate of a bigger, more famous and much rarer animal in this same part of the world: the mammoth. 被困在冰层中也是该地区另一种更大 更著名 且更罕见的动物——猛犸象——的悲惨命运
The mammoth elephants of old Siberia 旧西伯利亚的猛犸象
Dreamt of a holiday in Iberia 梦见到伊比利亚半岛度假
Fleeing the Ukase and the Knout 为了逃离沙皇的政令和皮鞭
Quite a few got lost en route 有不少在途中迷路了
Thirty centuries later we had to dig them out. 30 个世纪之后我们不得不把它们挖出来
Oddly enough, the only animal which the Siberians and the Chinese could conceive to be related to the mammoth was the mole. 奇怪的是 西伯利亚人和中国人唯一能想到的 和猛犸象相关的动物是鼹鼠
They were convinced that he was one of the giant variety - 他们相信猛犸象是鼹鼠的一个庞大变种
digging huge tunnels and humping the earth with his forehead. 在地底挖掘巨大的隧道 用额头拱卫大地
That imposing animal's weak spot was his extreme sensibility to sunshine. 这种威武的动物的弱点是对阳光极为敏感
If he was struck by a single ray of light, he died, instantly. 只要一束光照到它身上 它就会即刻死亡
And the proof of this, said the Chinese - who were strong on logic -was that whenever you met a mammoth in the open, it was dead. 擅长逻辑的中国人说 证明这一点的证据就是在户外遇到的猛犸象总是死的
Hence the Chinese word for mammoth: chu-mou, 这就是汉语里猛犸象的名称“鼠母”的由来 （实际上鼠母仅仅是鼹鼠的别称，导演搞错了）
which means 'mother of mice'. 意思是“老鼠的母亲”
For Westerners the mammoth raised other problems. 对西方人而言 猛犸象还带来了其他的问题
They knew what he looked like. 他们知道它长什么样子
He'd had his portrait painted by some of the most popular artists of prehistoric times. 史前时代最受欢迎的艺术家都为它画过肖像
His publicity agent was Father Breuil. 它的公共形象代理人是步日耶神父 （亨利·步日耶：法国天主教神父、考古学家、人类学家和地理学家）
And anyway, mammoths had always been on good terms with the church: 总之 猛犸象一直和教会关系很好
a mammoth's tooth attributed to St. Christophorus, was worshipped in Valencia... 一颗猛犸象的牙齿被归为圣克里斯托弗的 并在瓦伦西亚收到崇拜 （圣克里斯托弗：天主教圣人 曾经帮助耶稣所假扮的小孩子过河）
and as late as 1789 a mammoth's thigh bone... was still carried in the Saints Day procession. 迟至 1789 年 一头猛犸象的大腿骨仍然在圣徒日的游行中被抬举着
When the first mammoths were discovered in the 18th century, 当第一批猛犸象的遗骸在 18 世纪被发现时
the effect on public opinion was unspectacular. 并未在公众舆论中造成多大影响
It wasn't until 1900 that the mammoth became wildly fashionable, 直到 1900 年 猛犸象才变得时尚起来
after hardy pioneers had made forays into the Siberian wasteland... 那时坚韧不拔的先驱者们进入了西伯利亚荒原
and brought back quick-frozen mammoths in the flesh. 带回了被冰冻的猛犸象肉体
Men of science in that rugged clime 想去气候严苛的西伯利亚的科学家们
Had to be sturdy and still in their prime 必须是身体结实 正值壮年的
They had to speak Yakut loud and clear 他们必须能够大声清晰地说雅库特语
They had to banish all doubt and fear 他们必须驱赶自己所有的怀疑和恐惧
In order to bring back a mammoth by the ear. 只为能牵回一头猛犸象
Mammoths generally appeared after a landslide. 猛犸象一般在山崩之后出现
By the time an expedition got there, 而当探险队到达那里时
it might have sunk back into the ground again. 它很可能已经再次沉入地下
Or been eaten by wild animals. 或者被野生动物吃掉了
Several skeletons were found however, 然而人们还是发现了一些猛犸象的骨骸
and even some well preserved meat. 甚至还有一些保存完好的肉
Between 1707 and 1908... 1707 年到 1908 年间
18 mammoths and 6 frozen rhinoceroses were found. 人们发现了 18 头猛犸象和 6 头冰冻的犀牛
It was in the faint hope of bringing back at least an incisor... 我们抱着至少能带回一颗门牙的微薄希望
that we made the trek to the nearest diggings, 跋山涉水来到最近的挖掘场
on the banks of the great Siberian river: the Lena. 它在伟大的西伯利亚河流 勒拿河的河岸
L(i)ena, S(i)ena: 勒拿河 塞纳河
five times as long as the Seine, and fifty times as wide... 勒拿河的长度是塞纳河的五倍 宽度是其五十倍
the Lena, in Russian, is kind enough to rhyme with our French river in Latin. 勒拿河的俄语发音和我们法国河流的拉丁语发音押韵
So just picture to yourselves a huge lazy Seine, 所以可以想象一下 一条巨大慵懒的塞纳河
like an assembly line running backwards, 像一条倒转过来的工厂流水线一样
gradually coming to pieces at each new dollhouse settlement, 在每一个新的定居点处都分成更细小的支流
until it reaches its destination somewhere up north, 直至到达其目的地——北方的某地时
broken down into its component parts... and spread out over an estuary 120 miles wide. 完全分为不同支流 在120英里宽的河口上延伸而出
It's the only highway in this land without highways, 这条河是这片没有高速公路的土地上唯一的一条高速路
it's Main Street in the Siberian village, it's the road everybody uses. 它是西伯利亚的主干道 是每个人都在享用的道路
And by the side of the road,asleep under tarpaulins, waiting for transportation, 在河边 人们睡在篷布下等待下一次运输
there are city buses, bulldozers, farm machinery 这儿有城市公交 推土机 农业机械
statues of Lenin for culture parks, 文化公园的列宁雕像
rocket mock-ups for planetariums, imitation jeeps, and genuine Pobiedas. 天文馆里的火箭模型 仿制吉普车 正宗的Pobieda汽车 （Pobieda 是一种苏联生产的乘用车）
Not to mention the crates of furs from various animals, 更不用提那些成箱的各种动物的毛皮了
such as the sable, a nasty little beast that will make you like furs, 比如黑貂 一种会让你喜欢上皮草的凶恶小兽
or the arctic fox, a sweet little thing that would make you prefer nylon. 或者北极狐 一种会让你更喜欢尼龙的可爱小动物 （指因为不想杀害北极狐而选用合成纤维的布料）
Fox ! Lissa Patrikaievna 狐狸！丽莎·帕特里卡耶夫娜
My beautiful fox 我这美丽的狐狸
Little sister fox 我的狐狸小妹
Princess most wise 最聪明的小公主
What was the use of creeping into the Ark 你蹑手蹑脚地爬进方舟里做什么呢
Since you’ll end up as the collar of the captain’s coat. 反正你最后都会变成船长外套的衣领
Eagle, oh eagle 老鹰啊老鹰
When you walk, we see your socks 你行走的时候 我们看到你的袜子
You fill the goats with terror 你让羊群充满恐惧
And yet they’re… 然而他们还是
So why are you always crying out 所以为何你总是喊叫
I'm writing you this letter from the land of childhood; 我在这片童年时代的土地为你写这封信
between the ages of five and ten this is where we were chased by wolves, 在5 到 10 岁的时候 我们在这个地方被狼群追逐
blinded by Tartars, 被鞑靼人弄瞎
and carried away on the Trans-Siberian Express with our pistols and our jewelry. 带着枪支和珠宝被西伯利亚的特快列车带走
The Trans-Siberian is the longest railway in the world. 西伯利亚大铁路是世界上最长的铁路
It has carried away Anton Chekhov, Cendrars, and Gatti . 它曾带走契诃夫 桑德拉尔 还有加蒂 （Blaise Cendrars：瑞士法语作家；Armand Gatti：法国作家、二战抵抗战士）
I felt obliged to gather them all together here, 我觉得自己有责任把他们都召集到这里来
like sacred cows under a anopy of wild ducks, 就像野鸭树冠下的圣牛
to watch romanticism plus electrification go by. 看着浪漫主义和电气化经过身边
It's 7 a.m. in Irkutsk, 6 p.m in mexico and midnight in Paris. 伊库茨克早上七点时 墨西哥正值下午六点 巴黎则处于午夜
You're asleep 你们睡着的时候
I'm looking at the Irkutsk dam, 我看着伊库茨克的大坝
sitting on its own reflection like a station in outer space. 它伫立于自己的倒影之上 像一座外太空的空间站
The morning shift goes to work on the dam... 上早班的人正前往大坝工作
when the third shift is coming off at Renault. 第三波换班的人正回到雷诺集团
Big pressure cookers made out of Erector Sets loom through the fog... 雾中隐约可见 Erector Sets 公司生产的巨大压力锅
not yet moving. 它还没开始动
Here, across the river Angara, 这里 安加拉河的对岸
on the very spot where Michael Strogoff was surrounded by fire, 就在米歇尔 · 斯特罗格夫被火包围之处 （Michael Strogoff，凡尔纳小说中的虚构人物）
they're building the biggest power plant in Southern Siberia. 他们正在建设南西伯利亚最大的发电厂
While Angara fishermen are already catching their first fish, 当安加拉河的渔民已经捉到他们的第一条鱼时
Seine fishermen have already caught ten in their dreams. 塞纳河的渔民在梦里捉了十条
It’s one o’clock in Malta, noon in New Zealand. 此时是马耳他的一点钟 新西兰的正中午
And now here's the shot I've been waiting for, the shot you've all been waiting for, 现在 这是我一直在等的镜头 也是你们都在等的镜头
the shot no worthwhile film about a country in the process of transformation...could possibly leave out: The contrast between the old and the new. 任何一部讲述一个国家转型过程的电影 都不可能漏掉的一个镜头：新与旧的对比
On my right: the heavy duty truck: 40 tons. 我的右边是载着 40 吨的重型卡车
On my left: the telega, 240 pounds. 我的左边是载着 240 磅的俄式四轮马车 （Telega：一种承载负载四轮马车 在俄罗斯等国广为人知）
The past and the future, tradition and progress, 过去与未来 传统与进步
the Tiber and the Orontes, Pilomena and Chloe, 台伯河和奥伦特河 菲洛梅娜和克洛伊
take a good look because I won't show them to you again. 好好看看这一幕 因为我不会再展示第二遍了
It's one minute past seven. 现在时间是 7: 01
A truck from Irkutsk makes the pontoons bob under the floating bridge, 一辆来自伊库茨克的卡车经过 使得浮桥晃动
and at the same instant a lorry honking its horn rouses two hundred eleven people out of a sound sleep in Dijon. 与此同时 另一辆卡车的鸣笛声 将第戎的 211 个人从酣睡中叫醒
Four turbines are already functioning. 四个涡轮机已经开始运作了
But the problem is not just to light Irkutsk; 但问题不仅仅是要照亮雅库茨克
the problem is to electrify a whole district, 问题在于要为整个地区供电
which will constitute the base of operations for the conquest of those frozen wastes. 这是征服这片冻土的行动的基础
This is where everything begins: 这是一切的开始
the soil reclamation program, the increase in natural resources, 土壤复垦计划 自然资源的增加
and the resulting rise in the standard of living - 以及由此带来的生活水平的提高
but also the spiritual acquisitions that come after material transformations, 也会有物质条件转变后所带来的精神收获
the way nuts come after bolts: 就像螺母在螺栓之后到来
curiosity, contemplation, extended horizons… and culture. 好奇心 沉思 拓展的视野…以及文化
It's two minutes past seven. 现在是 7:02
The pressure cookers start to move. 高压锅开始移动
They're real monsters, 100 feet tall. 它们是真正的怪物 足足有 100 英尺高
And naturally there's a girl to go with each monster. 自然地 每个怪物都有个女孩和它一起
She orders him around in monster language, 她说着怪物的语言 指挥着它
and the monster obeys. 而这怪物服从于她
It's easy to imagine a romance between the girl on the ground... and the man in the crane. 很容易想出一则关于地上女孩和起重机上男人之间的浪漫故事
It would be nice to be a crane driver in Irkutsk, 在雅库茨克做一名起重机司机可真好
to give your girlfriend a box of birthday chocolates, as high as a house on the end of your hook. 可以送给女朋友一盒和钩子末端的房子一样高的巧克力
Now the dam site comes to life. 现在 大坝工地恢复了生机
Cars wend their way between the cranes... 汽车在起重机之间蜿蜒前行
like cats playing hide and seek in a railway depot. 就像猫在火车站里玩捉迷藏
Overhead the cranes stand aloof - alternately courteous and curious with one another, 头顶上的起重机冷冷地站在那里 彼此间表示出礼貌和好奇
like a herd of dinosaurs. 就像一群恐龙
And the whole dam becomes a spectacular display, combining a Ferris wheel and a naval battle, 而整个大坝成了一个壮观的展览：有摩天轮 有海战
and the Ville d'Este, and a pinball machine. 有埃斯特庄园 以及一台弹珠机 （Ville d'Este是罗马附近的一座庄园 现在是意大利国家博物馆）
Back to the taiga. 让我们回到泰加林
The rationalistic aspect of Siberia, 西伯利亚的理性主义的一面
is that a hiker walking in a straight line... 就是一个徒步旅行者如果直线行走
is always sure to get lost in the forest. 那他肯定会迷失在森林中
If he walks north long enough, 如果他向北边走得足够久
his reward will be 11 million square kilometers of tundra and ice floe that have to be conquered and transformed. 他将会遇到 必须征服、改造的1100 万平方公里的冻土层和浮冰
But first they have to be studied. 但首先必须对它们进行研究
That's the job of Vladmir Malenkov, head of the Low Temperature Institute at Yakutskt. 这就是雅库茨克的低温研究所 的所长弗拉基米尔 · 马连科夫的工作
In this climate, winter temperatures can drop to -60° C 在这样的气候下 冬天气温可以低到零下 60 度
But it's not for sentimental reasons that Vladimir has an electric fan on his desk; 但弗拉基米尔在他的办公桌上 摆电风扇并非出于感情上的原因
in summer they climb +40° C. 因为夏天气温会攀升至 40 度
In Siberia the weather jolts you - so do the roads, 西伯利亚气候像这里的道路一样颠簸起伏
but cars are insanity when you've got a handy conveyance that suits the terrain to perfection: the reindeer. 但坐汽车很愚蠢 一旦你有适合地形的便捷运输工具：驯鹿
The entire economy of the Arctic peoples is based upon the reindeer. 北极地区人民的经济建立在驯鹿运输的基础上
It serves as wheat, flax, rowboat, 它的功能相当于小麦 亚麻 小船
Christmas tree, medicine chest, and sacristan, all rolled into one. 圣诞树 药箱 教堂看守人 所有这些结合于一身
When gelded it serves as a horse, 被阉割之后 它可以作为马匹使用
and is allowed to keep its beautiful satiny antlers, 并被允许保留其绸缎般美丽的鹿角
whereas the foolish males cut theirs to ribbons. 然而愚蠢的雄鹿则会把鹿角撕成碎条
Oh reindeer, sweet and just 噢驯鹿 你是如此的甜美
Friend of the birds and owls 你是鸟儿和猫头鹰的朋友
They nest in your branches 它们在你的鹿角上筑巢
Happy he who has ideas in his head 有想法的它们固然幸福
Happier still, he who has birds 但拥有鸟儿使得它们更加幸福
Brown reindeer 棕色的驯鹿
on a brown plain 在一片棕色的原野上
Like an old spot of blood on dead leaves 像枯叶上的旧血斑
White reindeer 白色的驯鹿
on white snow 在白色的雪地里
Like the beloved’s silence 就像在静默中的
in the midst of silence 属于爱人的沉默
You could go on praising reindeer forever. 你可以永远赞美驯鹿
With those velvet handlebars... 它们有着天鹅绒般的“车把手”
and the way they have of kicking themselves along with their heels 还有它们用后跟踢自己的方式
they're the closest thing to a bicycle that God ever created. 它们最接近于上帝所创造的自行车
If I had the money, I'd shoot a spot commercial in their honor, 有钱的话 我会为它们拍一则商业广告
and I'd run it between two showings... or better still between two reels. 然后在两场放映之间 或两盘影卷之间放映它
The picture would break off suddenly, 画面会突然中断
and you'd see something like this: 然后你就会看到如下的画面：
(United Productions of Siberia Presents) （由西伯利亚联合制作公司呈映）
"We interrupt this film not to sell you some new miracle product, 我们打断这部电影 不是为了推销什么神奇的新产品
but to remind you of an ancient irreplaceable product to end all products: reindeer. 只是为了让你们记起驯鹿 这一不可替代的古老产品的存在
They make fine pets; they're less of a nuisance than dogs, 它们是很好的宠物 它们没有狗那么惹人讨厌
less intimidating than cats, less insidious than fleas. 也不像猫那样令人生畏 不像跳蚤那样阴险
Reindeer are all these things and more. 驯鹿有以上这些宠物的优点 且远不止于此
Are you dissatisfied with your car? Reindeer will transport you. 对你的车不满意？驯鹿可以运送你
Are you dissatisfied with your tailor? Reindeer will dress you. 对你的裁缝不满意？驯鹿可以为你打扮
Are you dissatisfied with your doctor? Reindeer will look after your health. 对你的医生不满意？驯鹿可以照看你的健康
Are you dissatisfied with your interior? Reindeer will redecorate you. 对你的室内装潢不满意？驯鹿可以为你装饰
Are you dissatisfied with your destiny? Reindeer will bring you luck. 对命运不满意？驯鹿会为你带来好运
And don't forget that for young and for old alike, 不要忘了 不管是对年轻人 还是对老人而言
reindeer are wholesome food, chock full of life giving chlorophyll. 驯鹿都是健康的食物 富含赋予生命力的叶绿素
Housewives of the world, wherever you may be, 全世界的家庭主妇 无论你在哪里
in Moscow, Rome, New York, Peking or Paris, 在莫斯科 罗马 纽约 北京 还是巴黎
beware of imitations such as moose, or elk. 谨防诸如驼鹿或麋鹿之类的仿制品
Always ask for genuine reindeer." 永远找准真正的驯鹿
We followed the reindeer to the Evenks' camp. 我们跟着驯鹿来到了鄂温克族的营地
Evenks, as you all know, are Tunguses. 如你所知 鄂温克人 就是通古斯人
Reindeer and Tunguses have always been associated, 驯鹿总是和通古斯人联系在一起
but it's a question whether Tunguses like reindeer because they're useful, 但究竟是 通古斯人因为驯鹿有用而喜欢驯鹿
or whether reindeer like Tunguses because they're light. 还是驯鹿喜欢通古斯人因为他们很轻 这是个问题
For centuries Tunguses and reindeer were nomads together. 数个世纪以来通古斯人和驯鹿一起游牧
But now all that's changed. 但现在一切都改变了
With a wisdom that would have done credit to King Solomon, they've been assigned home bases. 以所罗门王一般的智慧 他们被分配了定居地
They may not show up there for years on end, 虽然他们可能一连几年都不会出现在那里
but they've nevertheless graduated from the dubious category of 'nomads,' 但他们还是摆脱了“游牧民族”的可疑分类
into the respectable one of householders on the move. 变成了“移居的有房者”中受尊敬的一族
Having presented the head of the family with a plastic wallet, 我们向一家之主赠送了一个塑料钱包
a gift which he appreciated all the more... 这份礼物让他非常感激
as the Arctic world suffers from a serious lack of Woolworth's stores, 因为北极地区严重缺少伍尔沃斯商店 （Woolworth：澳洲零售业巨头）
we were treated to the ritual offering of freshly sawed off reindeer antlers. 因此我们得到了作为宗教祭品的刚锯下来的驯鹿鹿角
But don't waste your pity - 但请不要滥施你的同情
the operation hurts about as much as trimming fingernails. 该操作的疼痛程度与修剪指甲无异
At least that's what we were told by the grandfather in Tungus, 至少祖父用通古斯语这么告诉我们
by the father in bad Russian, 父亲用蹩脚的俄语这么告诉我们
and by the little boy in excellent Russian. 而小男孩用很棒的俄语这么告诉我们
For these children, who have inherited their ancestors bear hunting instincts, 对于这些继承了祖先狩猎本能的孩子们来说
go to school, and learn trades. 去上学 学习如何做生意
This may be a bad sign for the future of bear hunting, 这对将来的猎熊而言可能是个不好的迹象
as 103 year old grandfather Innokenti says, 正如 103 岁的祖父伊诺肯蒂所说
"Bear hunting is for youngsters. 猎熊是年轻人干的活
When you're over eighty it begins to be dangerous, 当你年过八十这就比较危险了
because in the days when Innokenti hunted Mishka 因为在伊诺肯蒂猎杀米什卡的时候
he was armed with a spear, and nothing else. 他的武器仅仅是一把长矛 没有别的东西了
- the name these people give to every bear, as if there were only one - 他们给每头熊都起”米什卡“这个名字 仿佛只有一头熊一样
But Innokenti killed that single bear eighty-five times over. 但伊诺肯蒂杀了这头熊 85 次
As for Mishka himself, I met him in Yakutsk. 至于米什卡本熊 我在雅库茨克遇到过他
Actually, his name was Ushatik, 实际上他的名字叫乌沙提克
which means "Little Ears." 意思是“小耳朵”
Beneath the somewhat moth-eaten exterior due to an overturned samovar when he was little, 在小时候打翻茶炊而留下的虫蛀似的外表下
he was a jovial, rather talkative, bear. 它是一只活泼健谈的熊
Boris Sergeivich found him in the Taiga as a baby, 鲍里斯 · 谢尔盖维奇在泰加地区发现了还是个幼崽的它
and he'd been a member of the family ever since; 从那以后 它就成了这个家的一员
he was "cousin bear." 成为了“熊兄弟”
After a breakfast of red berries, 在吃完红色浆果的早餐之后
Ushatik the bear took his morning walk through Yakutsk. 小熊乌沙提克在早晨的雅库茨克散步
We went with him. 而我们与它同行
Since you can never tell how a bear will react to a camera, 由于不知道熊会对摄影机做出什么反应
we were offered the protection of an armed policeman. 当地派遣了一位持枪警察为我们提供保护
But since we're much more frightened of policemen than we are of bears... 但其实比起熊 我们更害怕警察
we politely declined. 所以我们礼貌地拒绝了他们
On our way we attracted the attention of a group of Pioneers, 路上我们吸引到了一群少先队员的注意
who were thrilled to meet a film crew, 遇到电影摄制组令他们十分兴奋
and even more so when they found out that we were French. 尤其是当他们知道我们是法国人的时候
Here we met with all the ingredients of the Soviet citizens' incredible, 在这里我们见识到了苏联公民
rather touching, admiration for our country: 对我们国家的 难以置信的 令人感动的钦佩
one quarter French Revolution, one quarter Zola's novels, 这份钦佩四分之一来自法国大革命 四分之一来自左拉的小说 （Émile Zola：1840 — 1902 法国小说家）
one quarter Comédie-Française, one quarter secret passion for Gay Paris, 四分之一来自法兰西喜剧院 四分之一来自对巴黎同性恋的隐秘激情
and four quarters Yves Montand… 还来自与以上的总和分量相同的伊夫 · 蒙丹 （Yves Montand：意大利出生的法国演员和歌手）
When Yves Montand’s voice 当伊夫 · 蒙丹的声音
resounds over the short-wave 在短波中回响
the branches of Paris chestnut trees 巴黎栗子树的枝桠
come and peer into my window. 伸进我的窗户来窥探
When our distant friend sings 当我们远方的朋友歌唱时
warmth and joy spread everywhere 温暖和快乐到处散播
and distances shrink to nothing 遥远的距离也缩减至无
when our best friend starts to sing. 当我们最好的朋友开始歌唱
Lovers revolve in time 恋人跟随着歌手的
to the singer’s voice. 声音而旋转
The music extends 音乐也延展至
the Boulevards of Paris 巴黎的林荫道
all the way to the Parks of Moscow. 一路伸向莫斯科的公园
Kogda poet （？）
Daleki droug （？）
Toptei i radostniei Stanovitsia vokroug... （？）
Distances shrink to nothing 遥远的距离也缩减至无
when my faraway friend starts to sing. 当我远方的朋友开始唱歌
As I listened to this tribute to Yves Montand I looked around me. 当我听着这首向伊夫 · 蒙丹致敬的歌时 我环顾四周
Undeniable energy, enthusiasm, and the will to work. 我看到了不可否认的能量 热情与工作的意志
A faith that the future will be as bright as the past was dark. 我看到了即使过去黑暗 但坚信未来光明的信念
Huge gaps, and a firm determination to fill them. 我看到了巨大的差距 以及填补差距的坚定决心
While recording these images of the Yakutsk capital as objectively as possible, 在尽可能客观地记录首府雅库茨克的这些图像时
I frankly wondered whom they would satisfy. 坦率地说 我想知道他们会满足谁的要求
Because of course you can't describe the Soviet Union as anything but the worker's paradise, or, as hell on earth. 因为你当然不能把苏联说成是工人的天堂 或者地狱
For example: 比方说
"Yakutsk: capital of the Yakutsk autonomous Soviet socialistic republic “雅库茨克——雅库茨克苏维埃社会主义自治共和国的首府”
is a modern city, “这是个现代化城市”
in which comfortable buses made available to the population, “其中 普通市民能乘坐舒适的巴士”
share the streets with powerful ZIMs, “街上还有ZIM小轿车” （ZIM: 苏联生产的全尺寸豪华轿车）
the pride of the Soviet automobile industry, “它是苏联汽车工业的骄傲”
in the joyful spirit of socialist emulation, “在欢快的社会主义竞赛精神里”
happy Soviet workers, “幸福的苏维埃工人”
among them this picturesque denizen of the Arctic reaches, “包括这个风景如画的北极地区的居民们”
apply themselves to making Yakutsk an even better place to live." “他们致力于令雅库茨克成为更好的生活之处”
Or else: 要不然就是
"Yakutsk is a dark city with an evil reputation. “雅库茨克是个声名狼藉的黑暗城市”
The population is crammed into blood colored buses, “人们都挤在血色的公交车上”
while the members of the privileged cast brazenly display the luxury of their ZIMs “而特权阶级的人则公开展示着 ZIM 小轿车的奢华”
a costly and uncomfortable car at best. “这充其量是一辆昂贵而不舒适的汽车而已”
Bending to the task like slaves, “像奴隶一样屈服于任务的”
the miserable Soviet workers, “悲惨的苏维埃工人”
among them this sinister looking Asiatic, “包括这个看起来阴险的亚洲人”
apply themselves to the primitive labor of grading with a drag beam." “都亲自做着用拖梁铺路的原始劳动”
Or simply: "In Yakutsk, where modern houses 或者仅仅是：“在雅库茨克 现代化房屋”
are gradually replacing the dark older sections, “正在逐渐取代黑暗的老城区”
a bus less crowded than its Paris at rush hour “高峰期的公交车也没有像巴黎的那么拥挤”
passes a ZIM, an excellent car, “它与一辆 ZIM 擦肩而过”
reserved for public utilities departments “这种好车是留给公共事业部门使用的”
With courage and tenacity under extremely difficult conditions, “在极其困难的条件下”
Soviet workers, among them this Yakut, afflicted with an eye disorder, “苏联工人 包括这个患有眼疾的雅库特人”
apply themselves to improving the appearance of their city, which could certainly use it." “正凭借勇气和毅力改善他们城市的外观”
But objectivity isn't the answer either. 但客观立场也非正解
It may not distort Siberian realities, 即使它可能不会歪曲西伯利亚的现实情况
but it does isolate them long enough to be appraised... 但它确实将现实情况悬置了很久才进行评估
and consequently distorts them all the same. 因此也会造成一定曲解
What counts is the drive and the variety. 最重要的是驱动力和多样性
A walk through the streets of Yakutsk isn't going to make you understand Siberia. 漫步在雅库茨克的街头并不会让你更加了解西伯利亚
What you need might be an imaginary newsreel shot all over Siberia. 你们所需要的可能是一部在西伯利亚各地所拍摄的假想新闻片
I might screen it for you in the town's spanking new movie theater. 而我会在镇上的新电影院为你放映它
And the commentary would be made up of those Siberian expressions that are already pictures in themselves. 至于现场解说则由西伯利亚式短语所组成 这些短语本身已是影像
"The season of dying water" is winter. “死水的季节”指冬季
"The ghost of the winter hare" is snow, with its foolhardy flakes. “冬兔的幽灵”指积雪以及莽撞的雪花
"The grey ox that drank all the water in the valley" is the frost, “喝光了山谷中所有水的灰牛”指霜
which leaves trapped angry boats behind it. 它困住了愤怒的船只
My newsreel would begin with these images of winter... 我的新闻片将以这些冬天的影像开始
a long white night that lasts half the year. 一场持续半年的白夜
A weather balloon would take you high over the Verkhoyansk mountains, 气象气球会把你带到维尔霍杨斯克山脉的高空
the coldest region on earth, with a temperature of -69° C, 这里温度低至零下69摄氏度 住有8000个居民
and a population of eight thousand. 是地球上最冷的地区
You'd see huge caterpillars carved out of pebbles by gold mining dredges. 你会看到金矿挖掘机在卵石上刻出的巨大毛虫
You'd see silver birches that look like owls' tracks in the snow. 你会看到银色的白桦 看上去像猫头鹰在雪中留下的足迹
And then, as if someone had gathered up the forest in a giant sheaf, 然后 就好像有人把森林聚集成群
trunk against trunk, and sheared it off with cheese wire, 树干挤着树干 而细丝将其割断
you'd see Yakutsk planting its paving stones. 你会看到雅库茨克给自己垫铺路石
You'd see a topsy-turvy world in which houses move to their tenants on sleds, 你会看到一个颠倒错乱的世界 房屋通过雪橇被搬到房客那里
And hunters take live animals into the forest and set them free. 猎人把活动物送回森林并给它们自由
A year from now the hunter of the streams will kill the beaver he's fondling today. 一年后 溪流上的猎手会杀死他今天所抚摸的海狸
A year ago the trapper of the tundra was playing with the silver fox that he's going to snare. 一年前苔原上的捕猎者还在和他将要猎杀的银狐玩耍
There's not much time to be sentimental over animals whose furs are a natural resource. 对于那些毛皮是自然资源的动物 我们没有太多时间去感伤
For centuries past, the country's only one. 在过去的数个世纪里 此国只有这一种资源
Actually there were others though. 实际上还有其他的
Siberia has turned out to have been a poor man sleeping on a mattress stuffed with gold. 西伯利亚原来是个睡在塞满黄金的床垫上的穷人
The problem was how to get at the mattress. 问题是如何获得这个床垫
And now for the Siberian version of Diamonds are a Girl's Best Friend: 现在来听一听西伯利亚版本的“钻石是女孩们最好的朋友” （《绅士爱美人》中的歌曲名）
Larissa Popugayeva is a parachute jumping geologist who was dropped into the middle of the taiga, 拉里萨 · 波普加耶娃是一位地质学家
in the spring of 1954, to look for a blue layer. 1954 年春天 她通过跳伞空降至泰加林深处寻找蓝宝石矿层
After four months spent enduring the unendurable, 在经受了四个月的恶劣环境之后
she made her strike, and they wound up with diamonds. 她取得了突破 找到了钻石
The deposit is richer than any in South Africa. 该矿床比南非的任何一座钻石矿床都要富产
To look for gold they drown the land. 为了寻找黄金 他们淹没了这片土地
Before the dredges scoop up the ore and carry it away, 在挖掘机舀起矿石并将其运走之前
a kind of firemen, dressed like Breton fishermen 有一类“消防员” 穿得像高更画里的布雷顿渔民 （《布雷顿渔民》是保罗·高更于 1888 年以印象派风格创作的一幅画）
let fly at the soil with hoses. 用软管向土壤喷水
The real firemen are dressed like aviators. 而真正的消防员则穿得像飞行员
Because when there's a fire in Siberia 因为当西伯利亚发生火灾时
it's most likely to be the forest, that other great natural resource that's burning up. 森林中其他珍贵的自然资源也会被烧毁
And when there's not enough rain to put it out 当没有足够的雨水扑灭火灾时
they make it rain firemen. 他们就只能往下扔消防员了
To go from the forest to the factory, 从森林到工厂
to go to the market, to school, or on a holiday, 到市场 到学校 或者外出度假
Siberians always take an airplane. 西伯利亚人总是选择乘坐飞机
With no competition from trucks or trains, 由于没有来自卡车或火车的竞争
these planes have lost all their glamour. 这些飞机已经失去了所有魅力
They're like women in a world without men. 就像女人生在一个没有男人的世界一样
They're just flying buses. 这些飞机只不过是会飞的公交车而已
Except that they set you down in out of the way places... 除了它们会把你安置在偏僻的地方
where you're advised to dress like a bear if you want to pass unnoticed. 偏僻到如果你想安全通过 只能穿得像只熊
And then I'd show you the Yakuts. 接下来我会为你展示雅库特人
Now don't get the idea they're distant cousins of Nanook of the North. 别以为他们是北方的纳努克人的远房表亲 （引用了影史第一部纪录片《北方的纳努克人》）
They've got their artists, and surgeons, their writers and bards. 他们中有艺术家 有外科医生 有作家 还有吟游诗人
In very ancient times the wise Eley and the daughter of the mighty Omogoï 在远古时期 智者埃里 和强者奥莫戈伊的千金
joined in matrimony to produce the first Yakut. 结为连理 生下了第一代雅库特人
But most of all I'd show you the spring festivals, 但最重要的是 我会为你展示这里的春季庆典
when the dancers whirl, the curdled mare's milk flows freely, 当舞者起舞旋转 母马凝结的乳汁开始自由流动
and the old shamanic poems are revived: 古老的萨满教诗歌也得到了复活
Come forth magic bull of the universe and answer, 出来吧 宇宙的魔牛 请你回答
O spirits of the sun, who live on the seven southern hills, 噢 住在南方七山丘上的旭日之灵
O jealous mothers of light, 噢 妒忌的光之母
Let your three shadows stand tall and straight, 请让你的三个影子挺拔起来
And thou in the west on th mountaintop, 而您在西方的山巅之上
O Lord my father, 主啊 我的父
With thy dreadful strength, thy powerful neck, 您令人生畏的力量 您强有力的脖颈
Come forth with me. 与我同在
I'd show you the whirling dervishes of the spring thaw, 我想让你看看春天的解冻如苦修士般急行
and the routed armies of winter retreating under insults, 冬日在它的进攻之下如溃败的军队退却
while the whole pagan people invent the resurrection. 这是异教徒所发明的复活之日（resuccrection）
I'd show you reindeer coming down to meet the rising tide of warmth. 我想让你看看驯鹿下山迎接上升暖流的场景
And further north, the last days of winter, 越往北 到冬季的最后几天
when the reindeer shows an athletic streak I'd forgotten to mention earlier. 驯鹿会展现出我之前忘记提及的运动天赋
And my imaginary newsreel would end here, with this Kentucky Derby in the looking-glass world 我假想的新闻片在这里结束于望远镜中的“肯塔基赛马会” （肯塔基赛马会 每年在美国肯塔基州路易斯维尔举行的赛马比赛）
- for which there are no losers - everybody wins a prize. 这是场没有输家的比赛——每个参与者都能得到奖励
The most treasured prize of all undoubtedly being the return of summer and its companion: color. 而最值得珍重的奖品无疑是夏天以及它的伙伴——颜色——的回归
Now we can go back to Yakutsk, 现在我们可以回到雅库茨克了
and there, in the ruthless light of the wintry climate that has forged this country, that has laid so many pitfalls and landmines for its people, 在铸就了这个国家 并为人民埋下了如此多陷阱和地雷的 寒冬物候的无情光线下
we might better realize what a victory even the simplest achievements represent: 我们会更清楚地认识到 即使是最简单的成就也是一种胜利
houses protected from the cold, schools, libraries, 他们如此自豪地将避寒的房屋 学校 图书馆
and all the other things, which they point out to us so proudly we can't help smiling. 还有其他所有东西都指给我们看 以至于我们忍不住地笑了
Yet, our irony may be more naive than their enthusiasm. 然而我们的讥讽也许比他们的热情更无知
Twenty years ago, Grigory Savine is thinking, 20年前 格里高利 · 萨文在想
I fought a bear right here where we're building now. 就在我们建设的地方 我曾和一头熊搏斗过
Every Russian knows the story of the bear that helped the peasant build his house. 每个俄国人都知道熊帮农夫建房子的故事
In the end the bear turns out to be a well-bred Stakhanovite bear, 最后这熊成了一头驯养良好的斯达汉诺夫熊 （斯达汉诺夫运动：苏联第二个五年计划期间开展的社会主义劳动竞赛）
who gives the whole village a helping hand, 能给整个村庄当帮手
like in the song by Charles Trenet 就像夏尔 · 特雷内的歌曲里唱的一样 （夏尔 · 特雷内：法国歌手 作曲家）
and who wipes his feet before he goes into the isba. 它进入俄式木屋之前也会先擦干净脚
The tradition must have died out though, 不过这个传统肯定已经消逝了
since this is where I came across my friend Ushatik again, 因为在这里我又遇到了我的朋友乌沙提克
having a swim in the river. 它正在河里游泳
Bear, bear, little ears 小熊 小熊 小耳朵
With a belly like a pope’s 肚子和教皇的一样大
You give yourself airs in your overcoat 你穿着大衣给自己壮着胆
But you don’t look happy 但你看上去还是不高兴
You don’t want to go home 你不想回家
You don’t want to come to my house 你也不想回我家
You don’t want to go to church 你不想去教堂
You don’t want to go to school 你也不想去学校
You want to walk down the street 你不想去街上走
Giving candy to the little children. 给小孩子发糖果
On the outskirts of Yakutsk, 在雅库茨克的郊区
as we were coming back to town, 当我们准备回城的时候
an interested audience was watching the antics of Ushatik the bear. 一位兴趣盎然的观众正看着乌沙提克的滑稽行为
He'd managed to slip his leash 它设法挣脱它的皮带
and was demonstrating his anarchist tendencies with the shifty quickness of a puppy. 以小狗般的敏捷速度展示着它的无政府主义倾向
For a moment it even looked like he was going 有那么一瞬 它看起来想
to get his paws on Boris Sergeivich's motorcycle. 把爪子伸向鲍里斯 · 谢尔盖维奇的摩托车
Had Ushatik been corrupted by the movies? 乌沙提克是因为电影学坏了吗？
Was he going to ride away like the trained bears in the Moscow circus? 它是否要像莫斯科马戏团里训练有素的熊一样骑车溜走？
But no, his greediness got the better of his thirst for freedom 但是没有 它的贪婪胜过了对自由的渴望
a touching sight. 这是一幅令人感动的景象
But let cynics be comforted: 但令犬儒主义者感到安慰的是
Boris Sergeivich watches over Ushatik with such fatherly concern because 鲍里斯 · 谢尔盖维奇如父亲一般关怀地注视着乌沙蒂克
he's thinking of the day not so far away when he's going to eat him. 他想到 在不远的未来 总有一天他会吃掉它
I'm writing you this letter from the Land of Darkness. 我在黑暗之地为你写下这封信
That was the name Marco Polo gave it, 黑暗之地是马可 · 波罗为西伯利亚取的名字
and that was the picture in the minds of the first conquerors from Muscovy, 这就是来自莫斯科的第一批征服者们心中留下的图像
who left behind these wooden ostrogs, 他们留下了这些木质堡垒
like rooks standing on a chessboard after the kings have died. 这些堡垒就像国王死后竖立在棋盘上的车一样
Schoolchildren learn how the emperor of Russia and the emperor of China fought over the province of darkness. 学生们会学习俄国皇帝和中国皇帝是如何争夺这块黑暗之土的
Since neither of them knew the other's language, 因为交战双方都不懂对方的语言
the final treaty was drawn up in Latin by two Jesuit priests, 最终的条约是由基督教教士用拉丁文起草的
the only ones who could understand it. 他们是唯一能看懂内容的人
Christianity got very little out of that transaction. 基督教从那笔交易中得到的好处很少
One more evil spirit in Siberian legends named Jesus Christ 在萨满教和地方政委之间 教皇的临时统治留下的唯一痕迹
is the only trace left by the interim rule of the popes, between the shamans and the commissars. 就是西伯利亚传说中多了一个名为耶稣基督的恶灵
From this point on, the work of today's builders 从这点看 今天建设者们的工作
runs parallel to the older themes of Siberian mythology, and the underground journey of the black shaman, 与西伯利亚传说和黑萨满的地下旅程的古老主题并行不悖 （萨满旅程，萨满教的一种修行概念）
the men and women who succeeded in making stone houses stand upright on the Siberian soil 那些成功地把石头房子竖立在西伯利亚土地上的男男女女
have made that journey too, and for the same reason. 也是在为了同一个原因行了萨满旅程
I took the shamans journey down one of the shafts... 我在低温研究所的一个竖井中
at the Low Temperature Research Institute. 进行了萨满旅程
Six Feet below the surface you come to the ice layer, 地下六英尺处会看到冰层
and that frozen ground we've mentioned already. 以及我们已经提到过的冰冻地基
Beneath that are the caves. 在这之下是洞穴
I was expecting machinery, long tunnels, and lunar landscapes - 我以为会看到机械 长长的隧道 还有月球的地景
but I wasn't expecting flowers. 但我没想到能看到花
Preserving flowers until springtime 将鲜花保存到春天
is merely an attractive sideline for these technicians. 对这些技术人员来说只是一个有吸引力的副业
In their spare time they've invented a Frigidaire for nostalgia. 他们在业余时间发明了这用于怀旧的冰柜
But there is more to be gotten out of this cold mine, or rather this cold menagerie. 但在这个冰冷的矿井 或者说冰冷的戏院中 还能得到更多东西
Here the enemy is under lock and key, 在这里敌人被关在牢房里
he can be studied, manipulated, and tested to see how he reacts. 他可以被研究 被操纵 被测试以观察反应
All this is done on grocer's scales in subway corridors 所有这些都是在零下3摄氏度的恒温下
at a constant temperature of -3° C 以地铁走廊里的杂货商的规模进行的
Apparatus that might have been borrowed from a physics classroom 一些也许是从物理教室借过来的仪器
provides data on the resistance of ice to stone and metal. 提供了关于冰对石头和金属的阻力的数据
We see showcases full of frozen jewels and earrings for a giantess. 我们看到陈列架上摆满冷冻的珠宝和巨大耳环
We even see André Gide in person, as well preserved as the flowers. 我们甚至看到安德烈 · 纪德本人 他像鲜花一样被保存得完好 （安德烈 · 纪德：法国作家 1947年诺贝尔文学奖得主）
The walls and ceiling of the mine are carved out of sand, 矿井的墙壁和天花板由沙子雕成
solidified by the freezing temperature, which acts like cement. 在低温下凝固 就像水泥一样
But at the slightest touch they crumble to dust. 但只要轻轻一碰它们就会剥落成灰
Seen from close up, they are nebulae of seashells - 从近处看 它们像是由贝壳组成的星云
not so long ago the ocean was here. 而不久前 这里还曾是海洋
However it's the future that makes the low temperature experts' heads spin. 然而 让低温专家们头疼不已的是未来
They believe that man will find hospitality beneath the surface of this hostile land. 他们相信人类终会在这片充满敌意的土地上得到款待
Their laboratory experiments are the working model... 他们的实验使用的工作模式
of an underground universe straight out of science fiction. 直接来自科幻小说中的地下宇宙
Like all Russians they've read Jules Verne, 和所有俄罗斯人一样 他们也读过儒勒 · 凡尔纳
and are getting ready for the journey to the center of the Earth, 并正在准备开启前往地心的旅程
just as their colleagues, the astronauts... 就像他们的同事一样 这群宇航员们
are giving the kickoff from Earth to the Moon. 正准备从地球冲上月球
When we surfaced again, we were a bit dizzy from the cold, 当我们再次回到地面时 由于寒冷以及对未来的展望
and from looking into the future. 我们有点晕眩
We pictured to ourselves the Yakutsk soccer team playing host at last... 我们想象雅库茨克足球队终于在地下体育场
to a team from Odessa, or even Marseilles, 以主场迎战来自敖德萨甚至马赛的球队
in an underground stadium with electronic referees that go 'tilt' whenever the fans boo. 电子裁判在球迷发出嘘声时就会“倾斜”
There'll no longer be a season for soccer and a season for track, 不会再有足球和田径比赛的赛季
but perpetual springtime for all things, 所有项目都在春季进行
including the culture parks, 包括文化公园
those playgrounds for adults which winter also empties of their visitors. 还有那些成年人的游乐场所 在冬天也没有游客
Culture is what's left behind when everyone has gone home. 当人们回家之后 文化就被他们抛之脑后
We wandered through that deserted freezing park. 我们在荒废冰冷的公园里徘徊
We looked at the posters announcing the last movies of the season. 我们看到墙上有本季度最后几部影片的海报
Oddly enough the titles were familiar: 很奇怪的是 都是熟悉的名字
Fidelio, The Queen of Spades, Don Quixote. 《费德里奥》《黑桃皇后》《堂吉诃德》
A little gypsy wind was scraping our bones, 一阵微风刺骨冰冷
and in front of the library the statue of Ordjonikidze, 图书馆前是奥尔忠尼基泽的雕像 （谢尔盖 · 奥尔忠尼基泽：格鲁吉亚布尔什维克和苏联政治家）
bolted to its pedestal like Ulysses lashed to his mast, 雕像立在基座上 就像尤利西斯被捆在桅杆上
looked as surprised as we were to see a strange visitor at the far end of the path: 在小路尽头有一位陌生的客人 它和我们一样惊讶
a black horse with its legs hobbled. 那是一匹步履蹒跚的黑马
Ordjonikidze had been deported to Yakutsk before becoming its protector. 在成为雅库茨克的守护者之前 奥尔忠尼基泽是被放逐到此地的
Had he also become the guardian angel of escaped horses 他是否也成为了一位守护天使
seeking refuge in this windswept cathedral? 保护那些来到这座风雪交加的大教堂前的逃亡的马匹？
Like Mozart's Commendatore, Ordjonikidze nodded at the horse 像莫扎特曲子的指挥一样 奥尔忠尼基泽朝马儿点了点头
and the animal vanished into the woods. 这头动物就消失在树林里了
Seeing us, he must have realized that he was on the wrong set. 看到我们 它一定是意识到自己走错了片场
He probably reappeared instantly in a Yakutsk legend a thousand years earlier. 它可能在一千年前的雅库茨克传说中短暂出现过
Man's memory is incapable of retaining more than one name in any given category - 人类的记忆无法在任何指定的范畴中记住一个以上的名称
which explains monogamy and advertising. 这就解释了为什么会有一夫一妻制和广告业
In North America the gold capital was Dawson, in Siberia it was Aldan. 北美的黄金之都是道森 而西伯利亚的则是阿尔丹
This settlement used to be called 'Camp Invisible,' 这个地方过去被称为“看不见的营地”
after the little river that runs through it. 是以流经的那条小河命名的
When it became a town they changed the name to Aldan because it sounded better. 当它发展为城镇时 换成了阿尔丹这个更好听的名字
The new name was taken from another river which doesn't run through the town. 新的名字取自另一条河流 但它不流经此地
But you can't have everything. 你总不可能什么都要
Fretwork windows, curtains, and rubber plants, 浮雕花窗 窗帘 还有橡胶植物
there's no doubt about it we're in Russia alright. 毫无疑问此刻我们是在俄国
But let a buckboard drive by, let the band play a little gold music, 但如果让一辆斗篷车驶过 让乐队演奏一点明媚的音乐
and you're in frontier America. 那么也可以说此刻我们是在美国的边境线
Siberia had its own gold rush, 西伯利亚也有淘金热
on those same steamers with the tall smokestacks... 那些同样有着高大烟囱的汽船
that would one day bring Charlie Chaplin home a millionaire, 总有一天会载着查理 · 卓别林以百万富翁的身份回家
in those same railway stations where the trains always stop at high noon; 那些相同的火车站里 火车总是在正午时分停靠
the same mirage worked its magic. 淘金这一相同的幻景在这里也发挥着它的魔力
If you'd already struck it rich enough to buy a ticket on the Trans-Siberian, 如果你有足够的钱买一张西伯利亚大铁路的火车票
the first part of your journey was relatively easy. 那么你旅程的第一步会相对容易
In fact it was downright luxurious. 事实上 旅程会非常的奢华
The Trans-Siberian, with its drawing rooms, 西伯利亚大铁路的火车上配有画室
kitchens, bathrooms, pianos, bedrooms and chapel, 厨房 浴室 钢琴 卧室 还有小礼拜堂
was a kind of castle on wheels, 可以说是一座带轮子的城堡
and it had two advantages over most castles: 而与大多数城堡相比 它有两个优势
there were no stairs to climb, and it went all the way across Siberia. 不用爬楼梯 而且它能穿越西伯利亚
Up to this point the scenery has been basically Russian, 截至目前 风景基本上是俄罗斯式的
but once you cross the Ienissei the scene changes. 而一旦你越过叶尼塞河 风景就会发生变化
The uniformed engineers were just beginning to regret Moscow, 当美国 1849 年淘金热的人们已经开始探索亚利桑那州时
when the American 49ers were already exploring Arizona. 穿制服的工程师们才刚刚开始怀念莫斯科
You expected to see Indians? 你想看到印第安人吗
Well they were there too. 这里也有
Indians? 印第安人？
Cowboys? 牛仔？
Rustlers? 盗马贼？
Trappers? 捕猎者？
Gunfights? 枪战？
And romances. 还有浪漫
While the Siberian gold rush never mustered as many prospectors as its Yukon equivalent 虽然西伯利亚淘金热从未像育空地区那样聚集众多的探矿者
it did involve 15 nationalities, 2000 professions, 但它确实吸引到了来自15个国家的2000多种职业的人
and an unknown number of years in prison. 并且导致了不知道多少年的牢狱生涯
More remarkable is the fact that until 1927, 更值得注意的是 直到1927年
ten years after the revolution, 即十月革命的十年之后
the Soviet government had no control over the Aldan district. 苏维埃政府才终于控制了阿尔丹地区
There were gunmen on the roads, smugglers in the towns, 此前 路上有持枪者 镇上有走私者
and gold dust would change pockets whenever someone quick on the draw met someone quicker. 当一个抽枪很快的人遇上比他更快的人时 金子便会易主
In short, you had all the ingredients of a Western. 简而言之 在这里你能看到西部片中的一切元素
In those days knives between the shoulder blades... 那时候人们扛在肩上的刀
were more common than hammers and sickles on the shirtsleeves. 比衬衫袖子上的镰刀锤子标志还要常见
As for women, they say there were none at all in the beginning, 至于女人 他们说一开始这里一个女人都没有
which is a sad thought, 听上去很悲惨
and that later there was only one…sounds even worse. 而之后 只来了一个女人 听上去更糟了
But that woman was a Communist. 但来的那个女人是共产主义者
And it was she, one Judith against 4000 bearded Holophernes, 而正是她 一位能对抗四千个长胡子的霍洛芬尼的朱迪斯 （来自卡拉瓦乔画作《朱迪斯斩首霍洛芬尼》）
who saved the city. 她拯救了这座城市
Today under the watchful gazes of a few surviving Holophernes, 今天 在少数幸存的霍洛芬尼的注视下
the gold diggers have become workers like any others. 淘金者和其他人一样都已经成了工人
But in memory of that woman who achieved the triumph of right over might, 但为了纪念这位让权利战胜力量的女性
the gold in Aldan is guarded and handled only by members of her sex. 阿尔丹的黄金只由女人看守和处理
After countless doors, keys, 在看过无数的门 钥匙
armored plates and strong boxes, 装甲板和坚固的箱子之后
we were finally going to see the gold. 我们终于要看到黄金了
We saw it. 我们看到了
Here it is… 这就是了
Disappointing isn't it? 有点失望是吗？
As I said before, there are two ways of finding gold: 如我之前所说 有两种寻找黄金的方法：
it's like catching a thief, you can shadow him - in other words sink a mine shaft, 就像抓小偷一样 你要么跟踪他 ——换句话说就是挖一个矿井
or you can throw out a dragnet - in other words use a dredge. 或者你可以抛出一个拖网——换句话说就是用挖掘机
But there are also the rugged individualists. 但也会有一些坚定的个人主义者选择单独行动
They remind me of the old time cross country bicycle racers, 他们让我想起 过去在自行车比赛变得有组织性之前
before the sport became organized. 那些穿过国土的运动员们
You'd see them wandering around town at every halt with their bikes on their shoulders 你会看到他们扛着自行车在镇上的每一处休止处徘徊
looking for a hotel or a repair shop. 寻找旅馆和修理铺
Similarly, but in their case deliberately, 与运动员们相同 这最后一批淘金者们回避了集体行动和安全
the last gold diggers shun organization and security. 但他们是故意为之的
Their technique is the same as the dredge. 他们的技法和挖掘机的原理是一样的
They use the old California sluice gate, 他们利用老式的加州水闸
which deposits the gold in the bottom of a gutter. 将黄金沉淀在沟槽的底部
But the dredges bring up more gold in a day than these men do in a year. 但挖掘机一天挖出的黄金比这些人一年挖出的还多
If they became workers they'd earn more and live far better. 如果他们去当工人 能赚得更多 生活得更好
But they want the gold. 但他们只想获得黄金
The Yakut princesses were buried wearing solid gold rings set with tiny scraps of iron 雅库特公主们在下葬时戴着纯金戒指 上面镶嵌着一些铁屑
- a far more precious metal in those days. 在那个时代铁比黄金还贵重
And when I jokingly asked a worker if he wasn't tempted by the nuggets in his care... 当我开玩笑地问一名工人 问他是否会被看守的金子所诱惑
he answered quite sincerely, 他的回答很纯真
"What for? I don't need any false teeth." “我要金子来干什么呢 我又不需要镶金牙”
These are two examples of the same healthy indifference 这两个例子代表了在短暂的淘金热之前和之后
before and after a short bout of fever. 一种健康的对金子的漠不关心
But the lone prospectors have never gotten over the fever. 但孤独的探矿者们几乎从未从狂热中恢复过来
And perhaps they never will. 很可能他们永远不会了
Tolerated at times, outlawed at others, 有时被容忍 有时被禁止
they live in the wake of the dredges like gleaners on the heels of harvesters. 他们生活在挖掘机的尾流中 就像收割机后面的拾穗者一样
Sometimes they're drafted for menial work, 有时他们被征召从事卑微的工作
but most often they're left to their own devices. 但大多数情况下他们靠自己的设备过活
They may well be the only Soviet citizens not to benefit from social security, pensions, and free medical care. 他们很可能是唯一一群无法享受社会保障 养老金和免费医疗的苏联公民
There is no earthly reason for them to go on. 没有俗世的理由驱使他们继续这样做
Do they have some higher motivation? 他们有更崇高的动机吗？
I'm not so sure. 我不确定
There is scarcely more freedom in their individualism than there is gold in the mud they sift. 他们的个人主义所获得的自由几乎不比他们筛出的黄金更多
However they've been handling them both for so long now... 然而他们已经和这两个东西已经打了太长时间的交道了
that at times they forget which one they're looking for. 以至于有时他们会忘记他们追求的是哪一个
And perhaps in the last analysis they're not prospecting for gold at all, 也许 在最后的分析中 他们根本就没有在勘探黄金
but for mud. 而是在勘探泥土
As we sailed down the Lena again on our way back, 当我们在返回途中再次沿着勒拿河航行时
we didn't recognize her, 我们没有认出这条河
the big lazy sister of a few months ago... 这个几个月前的懒惰姐妹
had now become this black girl studded with imitation jewels, 现在变成了这个满身珠宝的黑衣少女
shimmering with sunlight that was absent from the sky. 闪烁着天空中没有的阳光
At nightfall, however, the Lena recovered her magic powers. 然而在夜幕降临时 勒拿河恢复了她的魔力
We no longer thought of her merely as a waterway, 我们不再仅仅将她视为一条水路
a provider, a shepherdess for barges. 一个水源的提供者 一位驳船的牧羊女
She was Lena the healer, the enchantress, 她是治疗师勒拿 是女巫
the cradle for monsters. 是怪物的摇篮
Kion Kiubei, the she devil exorcised by the popes and despised by active party members, 被教皇驱除 被活跃党员所鄙夷的女魔头 Kion Kiubei
has finally found her true expression on the stage. 现在终于在舞台上找到了自己的真面目
And the gods, devils, and heroes of Yakutsk, 雅库茨克的众神 恶魔和英雄们
whose presence we sensed lurking behind everything that had thrilled us in Siberia, 我们感觉他们潜伏在西伯利亚一切令人兴奋的事物的背后
lived again before our eyes in Yakut opera, 在雅库特歌剧中 他们再次在我们眼前复活
side by side with the towering shadow of Niurgun Bootor, 他们站在英雄 Niurgun Bootor的高耸之影旁
the legendary hero who overcame the forces of nature to liberate mankind. 后者是战胜自然力量、解放人类的传奇英雄
I am Tiuenia Mogol, the young warrior, 我是 Tiuenia Mogol 一位年轻的战士
Iuriun Volan has captured my bride Tuyarima. Iuriun Volan 俘虏了我的新娘 Tuyarima
Her body lies in chains and the old miser of the ice flow... 她的身体被困于锁链中
has her soul imprisoned in a leather purse. 冰流的守财奴将她的灵魂囚禁于一个皮包中
Yet I will set her free. Neither the wolf, nor the otter, 然而我会让她自由！无论是狼还是水獭
neither the inquisitive fox nor the impartial bear, 无论是好奇的狐狸还是公正的熊
nor the luminous spider spinning her web in the Northern sky shall stop me. 或者是在北方天空中结网的发光蜘蛛 都不能阻止我
I will wave my spear at the constellations... 我将向星群挥舞我的长矛…
and drive before me with my whip the cowering snow. 用鞭子驱赶在我面前蜷缩的雪
The next morning, we came to the Lena boulders. 第二天一早 我们来到了勒拿巨石
The very spot where Niurgun Bootor fought the devil. 这里是 Niurgun Bootor 与恶魔搏斗的地方
And suddenly a chanced landing brought us face to face with a magic larch tree, 突然 一次偶然着陆 使我们与一棵神奇的落叶松树碰面
on which the people hang ex-votos. 人们在这颗树上挂着还愿物
Thus, only a few miles away from the economic planning office, 因此 在距离经济计划办公室只有几英里的地方
and apparently not endangering in any way the construction of socialism, 以一种显然不会危及社会主义建设道路的方式
men offer up humble objects to an unknown god. 人们向不知名的神献上谦卑的贡品
In the light of this tree Yakut opera ceases to be mere folklore. 在这棵树的照耀下 雅库特歌剧不再仅仅是民间传说
- I am Kiuius, the other of Tuyarima. 我是Kiuius 是Tuyarima 的姐妹（？
My husband is rich, and I have costly furs. 我的丈夫很有钱 我有昂贵的皮草
But Iuriun Volan has stolen my dearest fox. 但 Iuriun Volan 偷走了我最喜欢的狐裘
And since thou hast gone from my side, 自从你离开我身边
thy sharp teeth o fox, gnaw endlessly at my heart. 你那狐狸般锋利的牙齿 无休止地啃噬着我的心
Oh thou beloved, 噢亲爱的
O thou sweet wise snow, 噢你这甜蜜而智慧的雪
O beloved face, 噢亲爱的脸庞
O tree of mourning, 噢服丧的树木
why were thou planted? 你为何被栽种于此
On the banks of the Lena, the heroes gather for the quest. 在勒拿河岸 英雄们聚在一起寻找任务
Soruk Bollur, Aïyi Umsur, Aan Eskel,
these knights with names like swords, 这些有着剑一般的名字的骑士们
are the Lancelots and the Galahads... 重蹈着兰斯洛特和加拉哈德的冒险 （兰斯洛特和加拉哈德都是亚瑟王传奇中的圆桌骑士）
of an adventure that will take them all the way to the pole. 这冒险将他们一路引至极点
Lacking a compass, they have Niurgun Bootor's symbolic arrow, to guide them like a star. 没有指南针 但他们有 Niurgun Bootor 的象征之箭 像星星一样指引着他们前行
Today the Yakuts have other stars to guide them. 今天 雅库特人由另外一些星星指引
When Sputnik added its imitation pearl to the Northern constellations 当前苏联的人造卫星将它的假珍珠添加到北方星座时
its coming had been expected since the dawn of time. 它的到来自黎明起就被期待着
All around us the Siberian earth swarms with beckoning signs, 在我们周围 西伯利亚的土地上充满了令人心动的信号
and we felt it was deeply symbolic that the first living creatures sent into space were Siberian dogs, the Laïkas. 我们觉得它具有深刻的象征意义 毕竟第一批被送入太空的生物是西伯利亚犬 Laïkas
Switching from sleds to rockets... 从雪橇转向火箭
is the Siberian way of keeping abreast of the times. 这是西伯利亚人与时俱进的方式
I am writing you this letter from a distant land. 我从遥远的地方给你写这封信
Her charred trees and empty wastelands are as dear to me as her rivers and flowers. 她烧焦的树木和空旷的荒地 对我来说就像她的河流和花朵一样珍贵
Her name is Siberia. 她的名字是西伯利亚
She lies somewhere between the Middle Ages and the 21st century. 她横亘于中世纪和21世纪之间
Between the earth and the moon, 在地球与月球之间
between humiliation and happiness. 在屈辱与幸福之间
After that... 在这些之后…
it's straight ahead. 它就在前方